On Santa Maria in the Atlantic, life slumbers on – for the benefit of the locals and visitors. Visiting a self-forgotten place. Stephen Wagner

When the postman has mail for Káki Sousa, he brings the packages down to the beach. “He knows where to find me,” says Sousa. It’s also not a big detour, maybe 50 meters, from the converted garage where the musician has set up his recording studio to the beach. Sousa takes the parcel, the two talk briefly, the postman drives on.