Can a city steeped in hard work become a magnet for visitors? 48 hours with steel, art – and a colossal backdrop.

On the way to a port elevation, take a deep breath: there is spice in the air, the aroma of heavy industry, a hint of fire and steel. The hill in front of us, the Heinrich-Hildebrand-Höhe, is made of slag; it is the green heap of a metal works. Above: a sculpture reminiscent of a giant’s untied shoelaces or a roller coaster caught in a violent storm. A walk-in work of art called “Tiger