Wind, vastness, rugged rocks and hardly any people: all around Loch Rannoch, visitors experience the rough charm of the Highlands. A declaration of love. By Bert Gamerschlag

My head wet from sleet, my toes no longer felt, my goggles streaky from the rain and my weather gear soaked with sweat, I push open the door to the Tea Room at Rannoch Station, fall in exhausted, and pull the door behind with a thump me and I’m angry. Everything hurts, and through the fogged up glasses I can’t see anything at first.