After the Second World War, Soviet troops occupied Danish Bornholm for eleven months. During the Cold War, the island was practically behind the Iron Curtain. Today it is a few hundred kilometers away from the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad. How are the people on Bornholm doing with it? A visit.

The waves of the Baltic Sea ripple on the beach at Dueodde, on the south-easternmost point of the Danish island of Bornholm. A fresh wind pushes the gray clouds in front of it. Nevertheless, a few little nudists jump into the water, screaming. Just a few hundred yards away, a monstrous 70-meter-tall white-and-gray box looms out of place amidst the coastline, coniferous forest, cornfields, and old farmhouses.