We love as much as we exasperate him. Restaurants, large and small, are a reflection of the time, capricious, and unbearable, vaguely awesome. Often at the side of the plate. A century has vanished, and the heads cling to, believing still in the under guides and rankings, forgetting a fundamental fact : the customer. Need I remind you, the king, it is still him.

The leaders are absent. There was a time when it was the latest chic not to be there. Do like Salvador Dali at the Meurice, organized feasts to which he was not. The chief, wanting to, undoubtedly, insp…

Article reserved to subscribers

Already a subscriber ?

sign in

Not a subscriber yet ?

Subscribe

ILLUSTRATION : DUSAULT FOR “THE POINT”

This article is from
the Point of the week

Read now

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here