We love as much as we exasperate him. Restaurants, large and small, are a reflection of the time, capricious, and unbearable, vaguely awesome. Often at the side of the plate. A century has vanished, and the heads cling to, believing still in the under guides and rankings, forgetting a fundamental fact : the customer. Need I remind you, the king, it is still him.

The leaders are absent. There was a time when it was the latest chic not to be there. Do like Salvador Dali at the Meurice, organized feasts to which he was not. The chief, wanting to, undoubtedly, insp…

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